I use textmate, its briliant. I can't stand wysiwyg editors, like you said they very rarely do standards compliant code. I read a review in a magazine once testing which ones did standards code - dreamweaver came out top - just! lol

I mainly use Raw HTML as i can be reassured what i put down on the page will stay exactly the same & not converted as some wysiwyg editors do.

Depending on what else i have to do i some times use textile, markdown or smarty pants.

I use a combination of DW CS3 and hand coding my HTML and CSS with EdititPlus.

I hand code it all, except a few basic things like image positioning and link adding. For that I use dreamweaver cs3 as it is quicker

i would suggest hand coding it, but i think dw is the best.